These are from an Islamic school in Kaduna. We had some interesting conversations with the leaders, expelling some stereotypes on both sides. The girls were absolutely lovely.
In Lagos now. Ah, luxury! No bidet, but free water and wireless. So much to tell, far too little time to post. About 4 hours' sleep on a good night, but I figure I can sleep on the plane ride home.
Kano has been my favorite spot so far. A brief visit to the emir, with his vibrant and vocal entourage. A visit to the dye pits, where I helped do some ironing, paid some "dash" so I could take workers' photos, and came home with an authentic indigo tie-dye in the "Emir's Palace" pattern, my beloved spiral/circle of life.
We also took a quick trek through the Kano market, my favorite so far. An intricate labyrinth of alleyways and nooks; the adobe reminds me of New Mexico's pueblos, the layout of Old Delhi. Found some Muslim fezes for the guys and fantastic necklaces for the ladies ... unless I decide to keep them all for myself.
Six-hour bus ride back to Abuja; an hour to change; a formal dinner; a 9:30 p.m. meeting with the vice president, Atiku Abubakar, who has switched parties and is challinging the president's hand-picked candidate; he's also the one who gave Rep. Jefferson the cash for his freezer.
We've become political tools! Our press conference with President Obasanjo became covered in the media as his "message" to Atiku about "amputating entire limbs" when it comes to corruption. In response, Atiku has referred to this American press entourage here at the president's invitation and hearing only his side of the situation. We've spent a lot of time explaining how we're on an independent mission, unconnected either to their government our ours.
The Independent
Online Nigeria: We're being "shepherded around" by the government!
After meeting the veep, home by midnight to pack; 4:30 a.m. wakeup call for the flight to Lagos.
We've spent the day with media people, visiting a newspaper and a Newsweek-style magazine. Independent journalism, like democracy itself, is a fledgling here; it's interesting to see the differences. Most people I spoke with had never heard of a "copy desk." On the other hand, little Punch newspaper goes straight to neg.
Tonight a joint discussion with us and journalists from several publications. So tired going in I could barely keep my eyes open, but it woke me back up. The universality of our problems ... we spent a long time discussing (rather, listening to them discuss amongst themselves) how difficult it is to convince readers to buy a paper in the first place -- how to become relevant.
I love how much more eloquent Nigerians are than we Americans. Young and old, positions of authority or pedantry, they all have something to say, and they say it with such passion and flavor. These are an emphatic people. (When not pontificating, however, they don't tend so much to listen to each other; it's not at all considered rude to chat, text or even take phone calls in a meeting.
Tomorrow we visit the lagoon communities. It should be messy but real and rewarding; I've been looking forward to this more than anything else -- talking with real people. Just a couple of brief drives through this city, not even in the "slums" we'll be seeing tomorrow, it's hard to imagine living in such undeniably ugly surroundings. Concrete and dust, and as much refuse as dust; people everywhere, everywhere.
Contrast that with a visit to embassy row in the evening, then to a nightspot where we'll get to see Femi Kuti, son of Fela Kuti, both well known Afro-beat musicians. Look for them on iTunes.
(Small world note: One of my colleagues went to school for a year with our own Sylvia H.!)
PS: Anonymous posters, I love y'all but make yourselves known!
5 comments:
Thank you for my birthday card! I can't believe that in the midst of getting ready to go, packing, etc., you got a card and arranged for its delivery.
It's also a very funny card.
Hi, it's me again. Just wanted to let you know that Rutledge just made the announcement Tuesday that John Mabry is the new managing editor starting Monday.
So a sports editor position may be coming open (although they plan to talk to Todd about it).
I remember Didi S. as "the belle of the ball" among the group of East Coast Johnnies who ventured west as juniors for a year away from Annapolis.
Also, I think I remember that her dad wrote for the AP (foreign correspondent?). Maybe that's how she got the gig with Georgie Anne Geyer to begin her career!
It's interesting to think of cultural communication styles as being the result of competition in the cultural context: if people tend to listen less than they speak, and it's not considered rude to chat & take phone calls in a meeting, then someone with a message would need to become eloquent (read: "worth listening to") to be heard above the din.
To turn it around: maybe our politeness is contributing to the decline of our eloquence. If we're willing to yield the floor to any old gasbag, there's no incentive for someone to put effort into organizing their thoughts.
On a different note, I think the phrase "copy desk" is inherently difficult to translate. Who in the world thought that "copy" would make a good noun for "written material", anyway!? Or that the word "desk" was even relevant to the function? I write computer code for a living, and nobody thinks to call the place I work a "code desk", or worse: a "source desk".
That's a really good point about polite conversation -- it was indeed difficult to get a word in edgewise! But, after all, we're here to listen.
I suppose the newsroom terminology is just so ingrained. It's been pretty universal in the places I've visited, however. And the point was that, no matter the name you give it, they didn't have one and had never heard of the concept.
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